Batimentos is one of the largest of the 200 hundred islands that make up the archipelago located on the Caribbean side of Panama. Costa Rica is over the rise on the mainland to the north. Bastimentos has many faces including one of an island paradise for the rich. On the Salt Creek side of the island the picture is more primitive.
Out on the open ocean we had been passed by an older couple in a small motorized wooden boat shaped like a canoe. That boat was tethered to the dock and its cargo of Atlas bear and bananas clearly visible. Under a steady drizzle, a young barefooted girl stoically lifted a bag a fruit and disappeared with it down the path. Another girl showed up for another load just as we were docking.
Pa and I came here with legendary guide, Livingston, a man whose write-up in the Lonely Planet guide book caused us to seek him out. Earlier we had lunch on another island and snorkeled amongst the mangroves. As we stopped on the dock it was decided to wait for the rain to stop. Also, Pa’s knee was giving him pain so he wasn’t in a rush to go anywhere.
The second girl to arrive lifted a sack of bananas and transferred them into a satchel with a strap that goes around her forehead for easy carrying. I could wait no longer and jumped out. I looked back and new both of them were in for a long wait.
I hopped out of the boat and helped the young girl with the bananas. She didn’t say a word and walked to the end of the wooden walkway which led to a dirt path. She was up ahead about 20 yards and me slowly behind. I didn’t know where I was going but nobody was stopping me.
The girl disappeared once we entered the village. I concentrated on the most amusing sign advertising a $6 tour. This confirmed the rumor of a tour. I started down the trail with the sign but was stopped by a woman who got my attention but not with words. She waved me back along another trail towards a house with chickens running about. The house was high off the ground and entered by stairs.
Past the house she lead me to a small shack with a door opened. A young man and several boys stared at me. I noticed that the woman I followed now had a child. I understood that I was expected to enter the dark shack. Inside was an older women and many items for sale. Among the items for sale was a hand carved wooden bird which I bought and hangs on my wall today. I also picked up a necklace of shells that I immediately put on. I asked the old lady to pose with my purchases.
Outside again I took some amazing photos of the group. These are some of my favorite photos I’ve ever taken. The young man would be my tour guide. I told him I wanted to see a crocodile in the wild. Somehow he understood enthusiastically and assured me that I would see the creature.
Almost immediately we came to a house where a couple of kids were cooking in the front room. He walked around to a gate while I went straight for the house. I understood this to be his extended family. The kids were solemn but looked happy and well fed. They spoke very little. The oldest, a girl about 12, chewed rice in her mouth and let it drop to feed the chickens. I took a series of photos of them. I enjoyed this visit and lingered long trying to get to know them. They weren’t the most talkative.
At a pond, the guide pointed to a crock whose features were clearly identifiable though below the surface. I realized then that I was more interested in his excitement at finding it then the animal itself. We moved on to deep jungle where we passed a house on stilts. What was unique about the house is that it had no walls whatsoever.
I couldn’t imagine the trip getting any better and it didn’t. He pointed out vultures in a tree and bovine grazing on acres of deforested land. Before I knew it we were back in the village. The trail had been a loop. I said my good-byes and made my way back to the boat. A little boy came up to me and took my hand. Pa and Livingston hadn’t stirred. They were in the same position as when I left them. To his credit, Pa didn’t complain about having to wait for me. To this day I’m grateful for Pa’s good attitude because I had the time of my life. Check out these pictures and you’ll understand.
Livingston next took us to Red Frog beach. On the way, under downed logs, we found the red frog. Despite the serious warnings, we both held the frog. Had we had an open cut on our hands, this could have been lethal action. Later we washed out hands in the ocean. The swells coming into the cove made swimming impossible. In fact, a couple had drowned here recently. Livingston himself had witnessed drownings here. As I thought to myself, if the red frog doesn’t get you the ocean will.
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